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Lake Nighthorse opens this weekend!

30 Mar 2018 / Comments Off / in Durango / 4Corners Area, Events, Featured, Fishing, Kayaking, SUP / Paddleboarding, Touring / Recreational/by

Get ready, Lake Nighthorse finally opens to the public this weekend! The lake is less than 3 miles from our shop and has been full, but off limits to the public for 7 years. What does that mean? HUGE FISH!

Lake Nighthorse will be open for non-motorized use only on weekends from 4/1/18 thru 5/15/18. After that, motorized use will be allowed, and operations will go to 7 days a week. Come enjoy the quiet of the non-motorized period on a kayak, canoe or SUP!

To celebrate, we’ll be offering 25% off any of our fishing or recreational kayaks, canoes or stand up paddle boards thru April 15th! We have a fully stocked rental inventory from brands like Hobie, Jackson, Mad River, Wilderness Systems, Perception, Native, Boardworks, SOL and Hala! View more details on our rental page here: https://www.riversports.com/rentals/

Come get out and explore the newly opened Lake Nighthorse!  Give us a call to reserve a boat or SUP at 970-259-3893!

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Lake Nighthorse Boat Rentals – Kayak, Canoe, SUP, Sail

28 Feb 2018 / Comments Off / in Durango / 4Corners Area, Events, Fishing, Kayaking, SUP / Paddleboarding, Touring / Recreational/by

Lake Nighthorse is finally open! Lake Nighthorse, which is less than 3 miles from 4CRS, has been highly anticipated since the reservoir began filling in 2009. We have increased our rental fleet substantially this season and now have an on-site rental location at the lake! Our specific inventory at the lake will rotate occasionally, and rentals are on a first-come first-serve basis. If you want to make a reservation for a specific boat, you can call us at 970-259-3893 and pick up your equipment at the store.

4CRS Rentals (both at the lake and in-store) will be your premiere rental source for fishing kayaks, canoes, touring kayaks, stand up paddle boards (SUPs), sail boats, and all the equipment you need to get out an enjoy a day on the water! You can also rent your boat, board and/or equipment from 4CRS and take it to any local area lake or river such as Lake Nighthorse, Vallecito, McPhee, Navajo, the Animas or San Juan Rivers, or just about anywhere you can float a boat!

Check out all of our rates and available rental boats, boards and equipment on our Boat & Equipment Rental Page

On-Site Rentals at Lake Nighthorse

We are now offering on-site rentals at Lake Nighthorse, which is less than a 3 mile drive from our store! We have a selection of solo and tandem kayaks, including pedal drive kayaks, SUPs and Canoes. Our selection of boats and boards will be rotating occasionally and rentals will be on a first-come first-serve basis at our Nighthorse location. Our rental tent is located lakeside across from the overflow parking lot. Weather dependent, our rental tent is open 9am-3pm daily (5pm when the wind conditions allow). See below for rates.
For more info, see our Rentals Page or call our Nighthorse Lake phone at 970-946-6410.

Type 2 Hour 4 Hour Full Day
SUPs $25 $35 $45
Solo Kayaks $25 $35 $45
Tandem Kayaks $40 $50 $60
Canoes $40 $50 $60

Why buy an AIRE Raft?

28 Feb 2018 / Comments Off / in Rafting, Reviews, River Running, Whitewater/by

In our 35+ years in business, we’ve seen a lot of raft designs and brands in pretty intimate detail. We’ve also done repairs on a lot of rafts. All of this experience has led us to what we think are the best boats in the industry in AIRE Rafts, Catarafts & IKs. Here’s why:

10 Year No Fault Warranty

Hands down, AIRE has the best warranty in the business. 10 years, transferrable, No-Fault Warranty. Seriously. We deal with AIRE on a daily basis, and out of all the companies we deal with, they are one of (if not the) best to deal with in terms of warranties.  Here’s the exact warranty from AIRE’s website (which can also be found here):

What this Warranty Covers: The Ten (10) year no fault warranty covers retail purchases on all AIRE branded rafts, catarafts and kayaks against defects in materials, workmanship and user damage. This warranty covers the tubes, fabric, D-ring patches, AIREcells, valves and zippers to be functional and water worthy with the following stipulations: This warranty can be void if the boat is structurally altered, used commercially or is subject to stress beyond the physical limits of the fabric and/or accessories. This warranty does not cover cosmetic wear, abrasion, excessive UV damage, abnormal abuse, neglect and/or inappropriate storage.

The Period of Coverage: The boat is covered from the original purchase date for a period of ten years. When original proof of purchase is not available or if a warranty registration was never submitted, the date of manufacturing will be used.

Dana running Black Rock on the Salt River, AZ in the AIRE Wave Destroyer 12

AIRECell System

At the heart of what makes AIREs so special, warranty aside, is the AIRECell construction. Think of it like a bike tube inside of a bike tire. While all other PVC raft manufacturers are using just a single layer of heavy-duty PVC fabric, AIRE is taking that same fabric, welding it together just like everyone else, but then putting a urethane bladder inside as the actual air holding membrane.

What advantages does this give? It makes them extremely easy to repair. Blow a baffle? Simply unzip the heavy-duty dual zipper and replace the bladder. Got a giant gash from running over something sharp? Replace the bladder, patch the shell and its effectively as good as new in regards to air holding capabilities! Need to do a small, simple riverside patch? Get to the bladder and tape it up with TearAid or AIRE’s repair tape, zip it back up, inflate and go! No waiting for glue to dry! Its a very versatile system from a repair standpoint.

Another advantage is the ballast floor. By design, the AIRE Cell system allows the floor to take on river water between the shell and the bladder to act as ballast for the boat. This aids in tracking and stability when things get rough by allowing the boat to “stick” to the water. It also helps on windy flat water days by allowing to boat to catch more of the sub-surface current and keep momentum. We often see AIRE’s passing other rafts on windy days.

The (very slight) disadvantages to this system are the minimal maintenance of the zippers, the occasional need to clean the floor out after lots of silty desert trips (still nothing compared to other manufacturers drop stitch floor designs…), and having to let the floor drain for a few minutes before loading it on a trailer. All that considered, we still think the gains far outweigh the setbacks of the AIRECell system.

Find out more about the AIRECell system here: http://www.aire.com/content/aire-floor-system.asp

Made in the USA

AIRE Rafts, IKs and Catarafts are 100% constructed in the USA in AIRE’s factory in Meridian, Idaho. AIRE also sources as many products as possible from US sources.

Check out some of our favorite AIRE Products like the 136DD raft, Super Puma fishing raft, the Lynx IK, or the Sabertooth Paddle Cat.

Fishing the Animas River in the AIRE Super Puma

Tributary

Looking for a boat with the AIRECell system but without the price? Check out AIRE’s Tributary line! Tributary boats use the same AIRECell design, using Vinyl instead of Urethane. Tribs are also made over seas, come with a 1 to 5 year manufacturers warranty depending on the boat, and come in one color choice. We’ve been using these boats in our rental fleet for years, and while not quite as quality as a full AIRE brand boat, they work and hold up pretty darned well. Definitely a great choice for the boater on a budget! Some of our favorites are the Tomcat and Strike IKs, Trib 14′ raft and the little Trib 9.5′ paddle raft.

 

PFD Buyers & Fit Guide

12 Dec 2017 / Comments Off / in Buyers Guides, Fishing, Kayaking, Rafting, SUP / Paddleboarding, Touring / Recreational, Whitewater/by

Finding the right PFD for you

A personal floatation device, or PFD, is arguably the most important piece of gear for any paddler. Choosing gear of the utmost importance can be challenging when faced with the myriad of options offered by different manufacturers and models. This guide is designed to assist the paddler, regardless of paddling sport, in finding a PFD, that will not only be of optimal performance for the intended use, but also fit comfortably.

USCG Type

Safety first- always. The first thing to consider when shopping for a PFD is the USCG buoyancy rating for the intended activity. For recreational paddling on lakes, oceans, and rivers, it is required in many areas to have a USCG Type III, a minimum 15.5lbs of floatation for adults or 11lbs for kids, or USCG Type V, which denotes a “special use” vest and includes rescue specific, high floatation, inflatable PFD, and commercial customer PFDs. Type V’s can have between 15.5-22lbs floatation for adults and 11-15.5 for kids. As the USCG is in the process of moving away from PFD “type” categorization and towards “intended use” categorization, further elaboration on the types is not necessary. For now, all that is necessary for the inquiring paddler to know is she/he needs a type III, unless he/she requires additional floatation or a specialty vest, such as a rescue specific PFD, in which case a type V will be needed. Type I and II vests are not recommended for moving water use. Type IV devices are throwable type devices and may be required as backup flotation on permitted river trips for boats 16 feet or longer.

Fit and Sizing

Adult   

Adult PFDs are sized by chest measurement and can vary by manufacturer and model. Each manufacturer has a size chart listed on their website.

One of the most important criteria for finding the right PFD is comfort- a PFD is only useful if it is worn at the time of need, and people are more likely to wear her/his vest if it fits comfortably. Of course, everybody is different and certain models will fit certain body types better than other, thus the best way to find the perfect size and fit for the individual is to physically try on each prospective vest.

When trying on a PFD, loosen all of the straps to their limit, then adjust all of the straps (starting with the lowest and moving up to the highest) so that the vest sits in the desired position as well as fits snugly. The vest should be comfortably snug. If the straps are tightened to maximum capacity and is still does not fit snugly, then it is too large. Obviously, if your vest is loosened to its maximum capacity and fits snugly, or there is no room to adjust for potential layering gear, then the vest is too small. The perfect fit will leave ample room for layering gear as well as being able to wear the vest with minimal clothing. To ensure the vest fits properly, one should fix her/his thumbs under the shoulder straps and push upward- if the vest rides up significantly, then it is too loose. If it remains in place, it fits correctly.

The Astral Layla is a popular choice for female paddlers

A women’s specific PFD has shorter panels (as women tend to be shorter through the torso than men), offer more room through the chest, and typically come in more feminine colors and designs. Female paddlers do not necessarily need to limit their selection to a women’s specific vest, and often times find that the unisex vests fit well, however, women’s specific vest tend to fit better and offer more comfort for a curvy, feminine figure. The Astral Layla is an excellent women’s specific vest offering the optimum comfort for the curvy lady paddler.

Kids

Kids PFDs are sized by weight and are categorized as:

  •     Infant: < 30 lbs.
  •     Child: 30-50 lbs.
  •     Youth: 50-90lbs.

Beyond weight, it is very important to ensure the vest is a snug fit on your child and will not slip off while in the water. To do you, pull on the shoulder straps while the PFD is on the child. As with adult fitting, it should remain in place and not ride up or slide off over the head. For kids in the “infant” and “child” category, it is highly advisable that the PFD have a leg strap to ensure that the vest will not slide off over the head, as well as head supporting collars. The Stohlquist Nemo is a great example of such a vest.

PFDs by Activity

After the determination of the USCG type necessary to be on the water, the next step is to find a design that will maximize utility for the intended activity.

Whitewater Kayak / Raft / SUP 

The Astral Blue Jacket fits like a glove and has more storage room than any other Type III vest

Whether paddling a kayak or SUP, rowing a raft, ect., these activities require freedom of mobility through the shoulders. To accommodate this freedom of motion, whitewater paddlers should look for a vest with an unrestrictive cut and a low-profile. Other things to consider are: multiple straps for adjustment to ensure a great fit, attachment points for securing knives, watches, and other objects, and a pocket for storing items that should be quickly and easily accessible. The Stohlquist Rocker and the Astral Blue Jacket are great examples of such vests.

Low-profile vests for freestyle kayaking or SUP river surfing should be mentioned. Paddlers in this category typically prefer vests that are as low-profile and lightweight as possible. To accommodate these desires, one can forego extra features and look for a stripped-down minimalist vest. The Astral YTV and the NRS Ninja are superb options for this category.

Low profile designs like the NRS Ninja provide ample range of motion.

A paddler might prefer a high-floatation PFD if she/he desires a faster resurface time than that of a regular type III vest. These vests are great for paddling big water or for paddlers with high muscle density and are equipped with approximately 20-22lbs of floatation, whereas, a regular type III generally has about 16.5lbs floatation. High-float vests have larger panels and tend to be more bulky, thus many paddlers opt out of the high floatation for the sake of comfort and range of motion. The NRS Big Water Guide and the Stohlquist Kahuna are great high-float options.

Rescue PFDs like the Descent are specialized for use in swiftwater rescue and high-end whitewater.

As a paddler advances into high-class whitewater, a rescue specific Type V vest should be taken into consideration. 4CRS highly recommends taking a swiftwater rescue course prior to purchasing to learn how to properly use a rescue vest. Type V’s are equipped with tow tethers, quick release belts, tie-ins, and with webbing and sewing that meets climbing grade standards for belays and live-bait rescues. To name a few, the Stohlquist Descent and the Astral Green Jacket are excellent options for the swiftwater rescue technician or advanced level paddlers.

Recreation and Fishing Kayak / SUP / Canoeing 

Rec & Fishing vests like the Astral Ronny Fisher provide ample storage and low profile backs for comfort.

Recreational/fishing kayak paddlers in this category should look for a vest with large armholes to accommodate the shoulder range of motion when paddling. A mesh backing (such as the Stohlquist Fisherman), or diminished back panels (featured on the Astral Linda or Ronny)  are to be desired, not only to keep the vest from interfering with a seat back, but also to orient the paddler in a face-up position in the water in case of an unconscious swim. Pockets in a variety of shapes and sizes are a necessity for the angler, and a vest such as the Astral Ronny Fisher or the aforementioned Stohlquist Fisherman offer spacious storage space.  If the paddler finds her/himself in a lake with motorized traffic, bright colors and reflective tape on a vest helps with visibility.

Flatwater recreational stand up paddleboarding requires a low-profile vest as to not interfere with paddle movements with spacious armholes for full range of shoulder movement. A few great options are the Astral YTV, the NRS Ninja, and the Astral Norge or Abba. If preferred the SUPer is planning on paddling on lakes with motorized traffic, brightly colored vests and reflective tapes aides with visibility. In cases where the SUPer does not wish to wear a vest (whether it be the SUP yogi or those concerned about comfort or vanity) an inflatable PFD, such as the Astral Airbelt or the NRS Zephyr, is a viable option.

Summary

Finding the right PFD for you is paramount for your own safety. Find a PFD of the correct type that fits comfortably enough to wear properly and snug for extended periods of time is the most important aspect of purchasing a vest. Beyond type and fit, look for something that is designed with the kind of use you have in mind, with the features you want (like pockets, thin backs, low-cut or rescue hardware) and in the colors and price point that are attractive to you.

Stand Up Paddle Board (SUP) Buyers Guide

22 Jul 2017 / Comments Off / in Buyers Guides, Featured, SUP / Paddleboarding/by

 

Choosing the right stand up paddle board for you can be overwhelming- There are so many options and it can be difficult to know where to begin. There are number of different materials, shapes, sizes, layups, fin boxes, deck features, etc., without even a mention to gear options. By breaking down the thought process of buying a board into easy to follow steps, this guide will help you learn to distinguish between different boards, paddles and gear so you can choose the right board to suit your needs.

Choosing the Right Board

Materials

Before diving into shape, size, gear or anything else, an easy place to begin your search for your paddle board is deciding between rigid or inflatable construction. Regardless of the kind of paddling you’ll be doing, there are both inflatable and rigid boards designed to accommodate your wants and desires. Here’s a simple breakdown of the overall pros and cons of each:

Inflatable Boards

  • Pros: Lightweight, and easy to store and transport
  • Cons: Technical performance and effort to inflate

Inflatable boards are attractive for several reasons: they are easy to store and transport, they are less susceptible to impact damage, and are more forgiving when/if you fall flat on your face on the board. Their downfall comes in the performance when compared to rigid boards and long-term durability. If you are limited in storage space, or don’t have a way of transporting a rigid board, concerned with the impact durability of the board (i.e., rocky whitewater paddling, kids, etc.), or don’t see yourself needing a high-performance board and simply like the option of being able to deflate the board, than an inflatable board is a great option.

Some of our best sellers in this category are the Hala Straight Up, Sol Train and the Boardworks Shubu Sport

Most inflatable boards are built with drop-stitched PVC fabric that incorporates thousands of strands of stitching between two layers of PVC material, which allows the board to keep its shape while being inflated to very high pressure.  Some boards are even reinforced with carbon fiber (such as many of Hala’s lineup) or other materials. While this type of construction allows for the board to be very rigid, especially for something that’s inflatable, it simply doesn’t to allow for the same rigidity and performance that a rigid board offers. For this reason, inflatable boards do not glide across the water as well as, nor are they as responsive as a rigid board.

Long-term durability, however, is a concern, as most boards need to be inflated to over 15 PSI. A minor leak can become a big problem, and unlike a low-pressure raft or kayak, effectively patching a leak can be very difficult. Inflatable boards are also at their most vulnerable when deflated, which most people don’t understand, and can easily be damaged during transport when deflated. Making sure that you properly protect the board by at least putting it inside its carrying bag, if not adding additional wrapping, is essential in the longevity of the board. Even with proper care, an inflatable can develop leaks over time that can be a major headache to remedy.

Another disadvantage of an inflatable board is the time and effort it takes to inflate them to the proper pressure. With a high-pressure hand pump, it takes an average paddler about 10-20 minutes to inflate a board fully. If you have access to an air compressor, purchase a specialized electrical pump, or don’t mind the extra workout of hand pumping, then an inflatable may be the right board for you. If you see yourself wanting to show up and get on the water without the extra hassle of inflating the board, then we would recommend looking at a rigid board.

You can view all of our inflatable SUP Boards here.

Rigid Boards

  • Pros: performance (fast, responsive, glide, etc), no pump required
  • Cons: durability, storage, and transport

Rigid boards are also attractive for many reasons: they are fast, responsive, and glide across the water better than inflatable boards. Because of the rigidity and the geometric shaping possible with a rigid board, they are capable of far superior technical performance and handling. If storage space is not an issue, you have the means to transport a rigid board, you don’t want to mess around with inflating a board, and/or  you desire a high-performance board, than a rigid board would be great for you.

There are a variety of materials that are used in the construction of rigid boards: a board can be made out of epoxy, fiberglass, plastic, wood, foam or composite materials, and even reinforced with carbon fiber, kevlar, pvc, wood,  etc.

In general, a rigid board most likely has a foam core (such as EPS) with an epoxy or a composite material shell. There are many different types of  epoxy layups, some of which are extremely lightweight yet somewhat fragile and some of which are slightly heavier yet more-durable. All of the above offer superior performance when compared to an inflatable or plastic board.

Injection molded or roto-molded plastic boards offer a mid-way of performance and durability between epoxy and inflatable boards, however, they are generally heavier than either. Injection molded boards such as the Perception Escapade and the Boardworks Rukus offer comparable durability to inflatables without being too heavy to manage. Roto-molded boards are extremely durable, but are often almost twice as heavy as an epoxy board. Most of these boards tend to be less expensive than their inflatable or epoxy counterparts.

The greatest disadvantage to rigid boards, generally speaking, tends to be their impact resistance. While their construction is what makes them desirable, speaking in terms of performance, rigid boards can be easy to ding or crack. Luckily, epoxy boards are fairly easy to repair as long as the damage isn’t catastrophically extensive.  If you are looking for high-performance, have no limitations with storage and transport, and impact resistance is of little concern to you, than an epoxy board is a great option for you.

You can view all of our rigid SUP boards here.

Activity (board shape)

Now it is time to discuss board shape, which will largely be affected by the activities you’ll be doing with the board. Ask yourself where you’ll be paddling? Will you take your board out on the lake with your family? Will your dog join your excursion? Or going down the river? Will it be mostly flatwater or have some current or whitewater? Want to surf the local river wave? Will you be taking your yoga practice out on the water? Once you know the answers to these questions, you’ll be able to select your board shape. Here’s a breakdown of each activity and a rough outline of the desirable board shape to match that activity.

All around design

All Around

Do you want a board capable of handling most paddle boarding activities? Whether you want to do it all, or you are a beginner who wants to try everything, there are quite a few options that will accommodate a variety of activities. You will look for a slightly wider board that measures 32” wide or wider with either a slightly pointed or rounded nose. If you plan on having your dog or child on the board with you, look for full length or ¾ deck padding to accommodate them. Some great examples of all around inflatable boards are the Hala Rival Straight Up, the SOL Rebel, or the Boardworks SHUBU Muse. For rigid boards, the Boardworks Kraken or Muse are great all around options

Touring design

Touring/Race/Fitness

Are you going to be paddling out on a lake, flatwater river, or calm ocean? Touring boards are designed to slice and glide through flatwater faster and more efficiently than wider, shorter boards with a rounded nose. Look for a board with a pointed nose that is approximately 30-32” wide. Some great examples of inflatable touring boards are the SOLSonic, the Boardworks Raven Inflatable, and the Hala Nass. For rigid, the Badfish Holeshot, the Boardworks Raven, or any of Starboard’s touring lineup.

Whitewater / River Surf

Whitewater design

Do you want a board capable of crushing downriver whitewater or surfing the local river waves? This is the most specialized class of board designs. Most whitewater and river boards are divided into two categories: down river and surf.

Downriver designs are wide, thick, and have a lot of hull rocker. This will help them be stable and ride up and over waves. Good choices in this category for inflatable boards are the Badfish RiverShred, the Hala Atcha, and the SOLShine. For rigid, the Badfish MVP or the MVP-X.

Surf designs will be much shorter and will have a sharp edge for carving on a wave. These boards are often thicker than traditional ocean surf designs to help them be more buoyant on the slower, less powerful river waves. Some great inflatable options are the Badfish I.R.S, the SOL Jah, and the Hala Peno. For Rigid, the Badfish Cobra 6’6” and the Badfish 6’11 River Surfer.

There are also a number of boards that fall in-between the two, designed to be capable both downriver and river surfing, like the Badfish MVP-S.

You can view all of our Whitewater SUP options here. 

Fishing design

Fishing/Expedition

Are you going to be taking your board on multi-day expeditions or taking it out to fish? Boards in this category should be ultra wide for stability as well as long with plenty of tie downs to accommodate gear (coolers, drybags, rod holders, etc.). Look for something in the 35” plus range.  Some great inflatable examples of boards designed for this purpose are the the SOL Sumo and the Hala Hoss.

Yoga

Yoga design

Are you going to take your yoga practice out to the water? Boards designed for yoga are wide, with full to ¾ length deck padding, and typically have a rounded nose. When shopping for your yoga board keep in mind that the wider the board is, the more stable it will be. You should look for a board at least 32” in width, but wider is often more preferable. Some examples of great inflatables are the SOL Shiva, the Hala Asana, and the Starboard Dashama. For rigid: the Boardworks Joyride Flow or Starboard ASAP Whopper are great choices.

Board Size

Now that we have had an overview of board materials and shape, it is time to discuss the right length and thickness of the board to suit your needs. In general, larger boards are for bigger paddlers, smaller boards are for smaller paddlers. As a rule of thumb this holds true, but isn’t always the case. For example a smaller paddler may want to choose a longer board if they want to do aerobic or long distance paddling. A larger paddler may want to go with a slightly smaller board if they want something that they can possibly surf with.

Generally, recreational paddlers up to 140 lbs will want to go with a 10′ board, up to 200 lbs an 11′ board and paddlers 200+ should go with a 12′ board. For touring boards, add 6 inches to 2 ft of length depending on how fast you’d like to go.

As we mentioned with inflatables, the thicker the board, the higher float and faster you’ll glide, but you’ll sacrifice turning performance. Boards for surfing, recreational or lighter weight paddlers, look for boards in the 4-5″ thickness range. For touring and fitness, whitewater or for larger paddlers, go 5″+.

Choosing the Gear

Paddles & Sizing

Now that you’ve got your board choices narrowed down, let’s look at the other integral piece of equipment: the paddle.

Paddles come in a variety of designs and builds. Most paddlers will want to choose a paddle with a medium sized blade. Somewhere around 85 sq/in is a good medium size. A smaller to medium size blade will give a higher cadence and allow for better board control and a more well rounded workout. Very strong touring & fitness paddlers may want to go with a larger blade around 95 sq/in.

There are many different choices at many different price points, mainly having to do with different materials. Most beginners will benefit from upgrading to a fiberglass blade paddle, like the Werner Thrive or Zen, for the lightweight and extra response over a plastic paddle like the Werner Vibe. Higher end paddles will incorporate carbon and or foam-core blades, and thus increase the cost dramatically, such as the Werner Trance or the Werner Flow.

Whitewater paddlers should look at the Werner Session or Legend. Built to a higher quality standard, the Session and Legend are built to withstand the high impact abuse of downriver and river surf paddling. This design works well for flat water as well for those that want just one paddle.

As for length, flat water paddlers will want a paddle that comes up to their wrist with their arm stretched out above their head (or 10-12″ over your height). Surf and whitewater paddlers will want a paddle that is 6-8″ over their height.

Many paddles come with a 2-piece adjustable option, good for paddlers that will be doing both flat water and surf paddling, or if several people of different heights will be using the same paddle. A 3 piece paddle will offer the same adjustability but with an additional break down point to be able to fit inside an inflatable board carrying bag for traveling. 1-piece paddles are the lightest, strongest and least expensive option of the 3, and also give the shaft a more even flex. 1-piece are preferable from a performance standpoint, but are certainly the least versatile.

Fins

There are many different styles of fins for different applications, far too many to get into depth here. In general, Longboard fins are usually longer and will track better. FCS fins are generally shorter and often directional, allowing for responsive carving in surf and whitewater. There are many articles out there on fin design and selection, but most beginners will be fine with the fin or fins that come with their board. Paddlers that are using their boards in shallow rivers (whitewater or flat water) will want to consider switching to a slightly shorter, flexible fin like the Hala Gummy Fins or FCS M-5 Flexi, to avoid damaging their fin box. If you’re going to be running the river, the Hala StompBox spring-loaded finbox is a great design, but only comes on certain models of Hala boards. Your fin choice will ultimately be dictated by which fin box you have, and what options are available for it.

PFD

Inflatable PFD belt pack

As per Colorado State law, a paddle board is considered a vessel, meaning you have to have an approved Type III or Type V PFD on board, along with a whistle. PFDs are always a good idea any time you’re on the water, regardless of craft, and failing to have these with you can result in a hefty fine. We prefer to use low-profile PFDs like the NRS Ninja, Astral Blue Jacket or Astral Layla. Many of these can also be used with a quick release belt, which is essential if you’re using a leash on moving water.

Inflatable PFDs, like the NRS Zephyr, are another option for those that will be using their board strictly on flatwater. These types of PFDs are very low profile, but are not appropriate for use in moving water.

Leashes

Quick release leash belt pack

Leashes help keep your board close by should you fall off. This is helpful for beginners or those using them on the river or ocean. We highly recommend quick release leashes like the Badfish Re-Leash or the NRS Quick Release SUP Leash when on the river, even on flatwater. Being able to disconnect from the board in case of a wrap situation is absolutely necessary. Alternatively, you can also use a standard leash with a quick release rescue belt. There are many different lengths in both coiled and straight leashes. Generally, flatwater paddlers prefer coiled leashes as they stay tucked out of the way better and create less drag, while straight leashes are more preferable for surf as they won’t slingshot the board back towards you when you fall.

Helmets & Pads

If you’re venturing into downriver or whitewater paddling, you’ll definitely want to invest in a helmet and possibly a set of knee / shin pads. Due to the shallow nature of river paddling, you’ll want to protect your head and as much of your body as is possible. GForm pads are great as they provide quite a lot of protection while staying low-profile and don’t impede movement as much as other pad sets.

Accessories & Dry Storage

There are many different accessories for your paddle board. Many boards are equipped with bungee storage lines, or at least the plugs to add bungees. If not, you can always add self-adhesive Tri-Way Lash Kits. Dry storage is also helpful in most situations, and dry deck bag like the E-Sup Deck Bag are low profile and designed to be lashed to the board. Self-adhesive pads like the Dog SUP Pad are helpful solutions for boards that don’t already have a full-length deck pads. Small coolers or crates like the Canyon Outfitter 22, Jackson JKooler or the Hobie H-Crate JR. can also be lashed to the board for storage, seating, or fishing solutions.

For inflatables, a proper pump is a necessity. Most boards now come with a high-pressure double action pump, but if not, the NRS Super Pump or the K-Pump K20-HP are great options. If you want to work a whole lot less to inflate the board, consider investing in a high-pressure battery-powered pump like the Hala High Pressure Pump.

Hopefully this guide has been a useful tool in helping you choose which stand up paddle board and accessories are right for you. If you have further questions or need help deciding, feel free to give us a call to talk to one of our knowledgeable sales staff at 1-800-426-7637

San Juan River Raft Rentals & Trip Guide

20 Jul 2017 / Comments Off / in Durango / 4Corners Area, Featured, Rafting, River Running, Whitewater/by

Goosnecks of the Lower San Juan below Mexican Hat

CLICK HERE FOR RAFT RENTAL RATES

The lower San Juan River is one of the most classic desert multi-day river trips in the Western US, if not the world, thanks to its scenery, geology, archeology and ease of logistics.  People flock from all over the world to soak in the majesty of the river as it flows from the San Juan mountains in Southern Colorado to its junction with the Colorado River (now buried under the waters of Reservoir Powell).  The most popular stretch of the San Juan is the “Lower San Juan”, which runs from just outside of Bluff, UT to the final take-out at Clay Hills, UT and bisects areas of the Navajo Nation, Monument Valley and Bears Ears National Monument areas.  In this guide, we will cover basic logistics, recommended on-river attractions, required equipment, available equipment and raft rentals, and other helpful info to make your San Juan river trip as memorable and worry-free as possible.

Permit:

The first step in planning a Lower San Juan trip is obtaining a launch permit via the Rec.gov San Juan River permit page. The permit lottery is run every year, with open applications from December 1st thru January 31st for the upcoming season. This is your best chance for obtaining the exact date that you want to launch. If you didn’t apply during the lottery, don’t fret, you can still apply for cancellations at any point in time during the year. Simply check for available launch dates, fill out the application and submit! Lottery winners will be notified via email shortly after the lottery ends. Cancellations are first-come first-serve, and you will automatically win the permit once you’ve paid for it.

During the application, you will also need to choose your put-in and take-out locations, which will also dictate your trip length. The shortest and easiest trip is the 27-mile top section from Sand Island (Bluff) to Mexican Hat, which is usually done as a 2 or 3 day trip and has a very easy shuttle. The 50-mile lower section goes from Mexican Hat to Clay Hills and is usually done as a 4-5 day trip, with a more difficult shuttle. Groups can also choose to do both sections congruently (as long as permits are available), and is usually done is 6-8 days. The top section is best for first-timers or those looking to do an easy weekend trip.

Floating above Mexican Hat

Both sections are great for beginners and families, with mostly Class I-II rapids and only a couple easy Class III rapids. The river bed is mostly sand with ample flatwater stretches between the drops, making it very kid and/or paddleboard friendly. The upper section is easily done year round (barring ice dams mid-winter). The lower section is better with more water than base flow (1,000cfs or more is best, but can be done much lower).

Groups planning on hiking or camping on the river left side will need to apply for a Navajo Nation hiking or camping permit. These permits are issued per person, per day, and it is recommended you submit for your Navajo permits 6 weeks or more in advance of your trip. These permits are pesky given that you need a permit for every person for each specific day you plan on stopping on the left side of the river, but it is better than being issued a citation for trespassing on a sovereign nation. It is completely possible to do the trip without stopping on the left side of the river, but you are also missing out on some of the better archeological attractions like Desecration Panel and the Chinle Wash area.

Planning:

So you’ve scored a permit; great! Now comes the hard part. Planning is often the most time consuming and frustrating part of any river trip. Making sure that you have enough gear, food and logistical planning for your entire party (as many as you applied for on your permit up to 25 max) is a daunting task, and would be too much to fully cover in one article, so we will simply touch on the basics. For more in-depth river trip planning, see our River Trip Planning Guide (coming soon) or do a quick Google search on the topic. Using a Google Spreadsheet is an easy way to coordinate gear, trip expenses and logistics between your group.

Kid and SUP friendly!

For gear, you will need enough boats to fit all your gear and people. We offer full expedition raft rental packages in multiple sizes that come with frame & oars, cooler, drybox, camp table and all rigging & repair material necessary for your trip. In general, 14′ or 16′ expedition boats are best and will fit 3-5 adults depending on how much gear and beer you bring along. You can find more info on raft and equipment rentals for your San Juan River Trip on our Rentals Page.

Stand Up Paddle Boards (SUPs) or Inflatable Kayaks are also a great addition to your San Juan River trip. The sandy bottom and gentle current of the Juan makes it a very SUP friendly trip. Both SUPs or IKs make it easy to get out and away from the boat for a bit, and give non-rowers and opportunity to have their own adventure. Check out our SUP and Inflatable Kayak Rental Rates here.

You will want to check the River Use Stipulations to make sure that you have all required gear, including first aid, repair kits, fire pan, approved toilet system, and other required equipment.

Dutch oven cooking

Another helpful planning / packing guide is our River Trip Checklist, which will give each member of the group an idea of what they should bring on the trip. Make sure that you have enough group gear for you camp / kitchen. Plan on bringing all your drinking water, as the silty water is nearly impossible to filter. Plan on approx. 1 gallon per person per day in the summer. For shoulder and off season trips, you can often get away with 3/4 gallon per person per day. If all else fails, there is always “water in beer”, as they say. Plan on easy meals for breakfast and lunch, allowing more time for hiking and sightseeing. Dutch ovens are often great ways to cook big meals without a big production.

Remember, thorough planning is truly the key to a good trip, so spend ample time planning out logistics, gear, meals and make sure that all of your trip members are informed and on the same page.

Executing:

Big sandy camping in the Comb Wash / Lime Ridge area

You’ve spent days, weeks, months of planning and now your launch date is here! Time to get on the water!

Keep in mind that there are few amenities in Bluff or Mexican Hat or anywhere nearby, so be sure to plan ahead and get any last minute gear / food / alcohol before you hit the road. Bluff is your best bet for last minute items. There is good camping at the put-in (pay spots) or nearby (Comb Wash and Valley of the Gods are great areas to camp). There is also free potable water at Sand Island, but we recommend calling ahead to make sure the spigots are currently working. For shuttle services, we recommend Valles Trading Post in Mexican Hat (435-683-2226). You can also pay a small fee to leave your vehicle at Valles to avoid break-ins at the notoriously sketchy Mexican Hat Boat Ramp. It is an easy walk from the takeout up the hill to Valles.

Once you have your shuttle dealt with, you’ll need to check in with the River Ranger at the put-in. They will want to see all your required equipment, so make sure not to pack said gear away before you checkout. The ranger will give you important and current details about river conditions, camps and archeological sites. They are also there to answer any last minute questions you may have. This is also a great time to chat with other groups about potential camps and will help avoid conflicts or tension.

Butler Wash Art Panel

If you’re putting on at Sand Island, we would highly recommend stopping at the Butler Wash Art Panel, Desecration Panel, and River House Ruins on your first day. Camping in the Comb Ridge / Lime Ridge area is the best for your first day. The second day, you will find yourself deep in the upper canyon, where there are fun little surf waves and plenty of scenery. Eight Foot Rapid is the only rapid to watch for in this section. Ledges or Fossil Stop are good camps in this zone.

If putting on at Mexican Hat, you start off with a Gypsum Creek, a small class two rapid. Almost instantly you are pushed into the canyon, with the red walls growing rapidly out of the water. The first day is fairly mellow with mostly flat water. There are several camps from a mere seven miles down to fifteen miles down if you are looking for a longer day. Day two you’re looking at two rapids, Twin Canyons Rapid and Ross Rapid, both have incredible camps below with side canyon hikes available. By the third day you are deep in the canyon, listening to Canyon Wrens and watching baby Big Horn Goats frolicking with their siblings. The camp to have on this day is John’s canyon. This camp offers a short hike up to a swimming hole called John’s hole where you can jump anywhere from a five foot cliff to a twenty foot cliff into the murky water. Day four brings government rapid (the most technical rapid) and lots of flat water. The best camps on this day are the slick horn camps, with more hikes to swimming holes offered by the canyon. By this time you have nearly reached the high-water level of Powell, so the last day comes with a big push through lots of flat water meandering your way through sand bars. It is recommended to break one long flat day into two days and camping at Oljeto Wash or Steer Gulch. The drive out may require a four wheel drive vehicle, so call Valles ahead of time to enquire about road conditions.

RESOURCES:

BLM River Office – (435) 587-1544

Notes: Permit applications due by Jan 31. Cancellation permits available year round. 

Shuttle Info:

Shuttles from Sand Island to Mexican Hat take one hour, while shuttles from Sand Island to Clay Hills take 4-5 hours.  Commercial outfitters provide the shuttles for a fee.

Shuttle Service Providers:

  • Valle’s Trading Post (435) 683-2226 (trips taking-out at Mexican Hat only)
  • Blackhawk Transportation (435) 678-3224 (trips taking-out at Clay Hills)
  • Jim Hardin (435) 672-2455 (trips taking out at Clay Hills)

Mellow SUP surfing at Mile 11

Other sections of the San Juan:

San Juan Quality Waters: this incredible piece of trout fishing waters is some of the most sought after in the entire country. The first 5 miles below Navajo Dam, NM are packed full of Rainbow, Cutthroat and Brown Trout. Despite its short length, its easy to spend an entire day here floating and fly fishing the calm waters of the San Juan Quality Waters. Our AIRE Super Puma Fishing Raft Rental is the perfect craft for a day on the Quality Waters. Our Canoe or Inflatable Kayak Rentals work well on this section also. The most popular stretch is from Texas Hole to Crusher Hole, which is 4.5 miles. You can also extend the trip an additional 1.5 miles down just past the “Aztec Bridge” at Browns Corner.

Mesa Canyon: This often overlooked gem of a run is located just downstream of Pagosa Springs, CO and runs through 13 miles of picturesque canyons and farmlands, with easy and entertaining Class II-III whitewater. This is a great run for aspiring rafters to cut their teeth with some very manageable rapids at moderate flows. At high flows, experienced whitewater kayakers will have a blast here with lots of on-the-fly surf waves, while rafters will have a fairly continuous barrage of fast corners and big wave trains. The put-in is behind the Malt Shoppe, and the takeout is on Trujillo Road where there is an obvious takeout right next to the road. This is the only public access on the stretch, and there is no stopping allowed, except at one designated spot about half-way thru the run on some private land that has been generously opened to day use as a stopping area. Please be respectful here, or it may go away. Our AIRE Super Puma, Tributary 12′ or 14′ Raft Rentals are the perfect boats for this stretch. Consider an Inflatable Kayak Rental if you’re looking for more excitement, and the water levels are on the medium or low side. 

Dolores River Shuttles

23 Mar 2017 / Comments Off / in Durango / 4Corners Area, Kayaking, News / Events, Rafting, River Running, Whitewater/by

Looking to get on the Dolores this spring? Here’s some contact info for shuttle services:

*4CRS has no association with Dolores River Shuttles. Please contact them directly for more info.*

Dolores River Shuttle Service

Doing Business For over 25 years

Jamie Huskey – (970) 677-2301 or (970) 739-4561

Torie Davis – (970) 560-1475

Price includes a fee our vehicle to take our drivers to your vehicle and bring them back from your destination.

  • Cahone to Slickrock – $90 first vehicle / $35 for each extra up to 4
  • Cahone to Gypsum – $195 first vehicle / $75 for each extra up to 4
  • Cahone to Pump Station – $90 first vehicle / $35 for each extra up to 4
  • Cahone to Bedrock – $210 first vehicle / $85 for each extra up to 4
  • Cahone to Gateway – $250 first vehicle / $110 for each extra up to 4
  • Slickrock to Gypsum – $120 first vehicle / $45 for each extra up to 4
  • Slickrock to Bedrock – $210 first vehicle / $55 for each extra up to 4
  • Slickrock to Gateway – $190 first vehicle / $75 for each extra up to 4
  • Slickrock to Dewey Bridge – $340 first Vehicle / $150 for each extra up to 4

A $12 per hour waiting fee will be charged if we have to wait for more than 15 mins.

The parking lot at Slickrock is privately owned and there is a $5 a day parking fee. This charge needs to be paid before parking there. This fee is not included in the shuttle fees.

Dagger Katana 10.4 long-term review

25 Jan 2017 / Comments Off / in Kayaking, Reviews, River Running, Whitewater/by

Whitewater Expedition Kayak.

River Cross-Over.

Self-Support Assault Weapon.

The Dagger Katana 10.4 is all of these things and more. Over the past year, I’ve had the opportunity to spend the better part of 2 weeks paddling and living out the Katana, and I can honestly say it has won me over. From the ease of packing, to the stability, to the overall performance of the boat, it puts a smile on my face every time! The Katana is versatile enough to be appreciated by anyone, from rank beginners to seasoned pros, with enough stability and tracking thanks to the skeg for a total novice, but with enough agility and performance to be paddled on Class V as well. If your focus is self-support paddling, whether its on calm water stretches like the Green River, or on big, technical whitewater like Cataract Canyon, the Katana is the boat for you.

All my gear for a 10-day Grand Canyon self-support

Packing the boat:

This is one area where the Katana really shines. The spacious, sealed rear hatch allows for ample and easy gear loading and access. One thing that I’ve noticed compared to other models is that the skeg and its cable are much less obtrusive, making the Katana very easy to load. I was able to fit my tent, sleeping bag, clothing, Dromedary water bag, trash bag, firepan parts (split amongst the group), miscellaneous gear bag, camp shoes, kitchen tarp and small Pelican cases inside my rear hatch with just enough room for a few beers.

Up front, the removable center column and bulkhead allows for tons of easily-accessible storage in the bow. I try to put heavier items that I won’t need to access throughout the day up front, such as my dinner/breakfast food bag, Kelty Noah’s Tarp, 64oz whiskey flask, GSI Pinnacle Dualist Complete Cookset in an NRS 10L Tuff Sack, Travel Chair Joey Chair, Jacks Plastic Water Bucket, and more beer, in front of the bulkhead. For more of the gear we used on this and other trips, see our How to Self-Support Kayak post.

Ample room for day gear behind the backband.

In the cockpit, thanks to the ample space between the backband and the rear bulkhead, I was able to keep my lunch bag, day gear bag, small first aid and my digital SLR camera inside of a Watershed Ocoee with Liner behind the seat. I also kept my sunblock, spare sunglasses and snacks in the Katana’s integrated soft-case beam bag that sits on the center support column.

I opted to “reach across the aisle” and added the Jackson Kayak Hard Hat Hatch Cover system for added implosion protection and so I could carry my groover tube outside of my boat. The system fit and worked perfectly, but the groover tube would catch the current on some of the bigger rapids of the Grand and pushed my stern around quite a lot when it did so. Both this system and the factory hatch cover (which Jimbo used as-is) worked great with negligible leakage.

I started the trip with a deck bag lashed to the deck bungees to contain my map, but found it more trouble than it was worth and interfered with my paddling in the whitewater. So I stashed it in my hatch and tucked the map between my seat and the sidewall, which was just as convenient.

*Note on use: Make sure not to lose the bulkhead mount nuts or the center column bolt. We carried spares just in case. You will be taking these on and off every day of a multi-day trip and they are easy to misplace. I got in the habit of threading them back onto the bolts and threading the column bolt back into the inserts to keep the sand out and to keep from losing it. Be careful not to tweak this bolt when loading or unloading if you do so. *

Skeg down! One of many miles of scenic flatwater.

Fit and comfort:

I haven’t found an outfitting system on the market that fits me better than Dagger’s Contour Ergo System, and the Katana is no exception. The thigh-brace profile, leg lifter, easy to adjust hip pads and ratchet back band work in conjunction for a precise and comfortable fit. I found that by tightening the upper retainer straps that attach to the back of the backband, I could pull it up high on my back and provide amazing lumbar support for all the flatwater sections. The Katana was comfortable enough where I could paddle for the better part of 6 hours without having to get out of the boat to stretch.

My one gripe with the Katana is the leaking. Granted, it is a Dagger, which have never had the reputation of being super dry kayaks, but deck bungee mounts definitely don’t help things. For some reason, Dagger decided to use a molded-in nut on the very front bungee mount, but none of the others. That means there are 21 holes total in the front of the rear bulkhead if you count all the outfitting mounts, the cockpit and the drain plug. This was totally manageable with a good bilge sponge and some pre-trip duct taping, but I was spending a bit more time sponging compared to the other kayaks on the trip.

Getting pitted in House Rock

Paddling Performance:

No gripes in this arena, the Katana simply paddles great. If you’ve ever paddled a Dagger Mamba, this boat will feel remarkably familiar. The first thing you’ll notice is the stability, especially when fully loaded. Going for a practice roll, you actually have a hard time tipping it completely upside down. But the cool part is when you realize that this boat REALLY doesn’t want to be upside down. It rolls AMAZINGLY easily, despite mine weighing in at over 160lbs with all my gear. Bracing was super easy in the Katana, with a forgiving, rounded chine that snapped back into place when you need it to. All this makes the Katana very confidence inspiring, especially in big water.

With all the flatwater on the Grand, I was very happy to have the drop-skeg, which keeps the boat tracking straight and allows for more time to enjoy the scenery instead of where you’re going. With the skeg up, the bow wants to wander without quite a lot of correction, and this holds true in whitewater to some extent as well. With all of the funky currents of the 40,000 cfs High Flow Experiment on the Grand, we found ourselves leaving the skeg down even in the rapids, which would help keep things on line in the pushy current and would help us cruise through the large boils and whirlpools at the bottom of the drops. Even on the lower water rivers of the Salt and the Dolores, I would leave the skeg at least part way down, even on the more technical rapids. For overly shallow or technical rapids, I fully retracted the skeg and the Katana would pivot on a dime.

Boofing any fully loaded boat is not an easy task, and the Katana is no exception. Even still, I was able to keep the bow from subbing out on steep rapids like Snaggletooth on the Dolores and Black Rock on the Salt, with the right timing and enough power. In big water, we were punching holes and laterals that would have eaten us alive in lighter weight boats. It was really fun pointing it for the biggest hole you could find and running hey-diddle-diddle-right-down-the-middle with some speed. And while paddling such a heavy boat does take some getting used to at first, the Katana’s predictability makes it so that any semi-competent paddler will have it figured out in no time!

The author at Havasu Creek

Conclusion:

There are few boats in my paddling career that I’ve been as excited to paddle as the Katana. Granted, a portion of that is the types of trips it is designed for, which are the types of trips that I REALLY enjoy doing, but a good chunk of that is the boat itself.  Every time that I paddle the Katana on a self-support mission, I know I’m making long-lasting memories and am bound to have a good time. And while I could be doing that in just about ANY boat that is large enough to pack all my gear in, the Katana makes it pleasurable, thanks to its ease of packing, comfort, and overall performance.

Pros:

  • Stable & forgiving without being sluggish. Very versatile.
  • Ease of packing thanks to the hatch & bulkhead system.
  • Most comfortable outfitting on the market.
  • Drop Skeg for flatter / swirlier sections.

Cons:

  • Leaky hull design (it’s a Dagger!)
  • Easy to lose bulkhead nuts
  • Protruding screws in the bow are easy to tear a drybag on.

The Katana will help you to get to places like this. James Dickey at Havasu Creek, Grand Canyon, AZ.

Two Katana’s in Crystal Rapid at almost 40,000 c.f.s. This was our very first rapid of the high-water flow event, and I found myself upside down thanks to shaky nerves and my groover tube getting buried in the trough of the biggest wave. Luckily, the Katana doesn’t like to be upside down when fully loaded and was a (slow) breeze to roll.

Click here to shop now!

Self-Support Kayaking: A How To

01 Dec 2016 / Comments Off / in Durango / 4Corners Area, Featured, Instruction, Kayaking, River Running, Uncategorized, Whitewater/by

A guide to planning and executing self-support kayaking trips

Self-support kayaking is often looked upon as something that only the most experienced and dedicated kayakers undertake. But, self-support trips are something that even novice kayakers can undertake with proper gear and planning. The glory of self-support is the simplicity and efficiency, especially compared to more gear-intensive raft trips. Self-support trips are often faster, and provide more opportunities to camp in places that wouldn’t be feasible in a raft, or give you access to more difficult to access side-canyon hikes. With a little bit of preparation and practice, just about anyone can enjoy a multi-day kayak trip. This guide will give you some tools to plan and execute your own self-support kayak trip.

The author in House Rock rapid

– Planning –

Planning is possibly the most important aspect of any trip. You will want to spend ample time making sure that you are fully prepared for your trip. I find that making itemized Google Doc spreadsheet lists is extremely helpful with trip planning. They are easy to share, collaborate on and are easily saved and updated from trip to trip. They are also great for documenting trip expenses or group gear checklists.

•  Gear:

The first thing you’ll need to itemize is your gear. I like to break it down into three lists: kayaking gear, camping gear and clothing. Kayaking gear will mainly consist of gear that you would use on any river trip: kayak, paddle, skirt, helmet, pfd, river shoes, throwbag, etc. Drysuits are almost mandatory on self-support trips because of their added safety and comfort benefits. Bring a repair kit with basics like duct tape, super glue, Aquaseal, Tenacious Tape, spare gaskets, spare outfitting bolts and screws, bituthene or Quick-Patch.

When choosing your kayak, choose something big enough to fit you and all your gear, but small enough to maneuver if you’re headed on a low-water or technical river. On our trip, our group chose to paddle boats like the Dagger Katana 10.4, Jackson Karma Traverse 10 and Karma RG, and the Dagger Green Boat. Check out our Expedition Whitewater Kayak page for more examples.

Check for any regulations in the area you’ll be paddling. Make sure that you have all the required gear and that all of it is up to code. One member of our group had his PFD rejected at Lee’s Ferry because the ranger couldn’t read one number of the serial number. Luckily, we had thrown a few extra in the shuttle van.

When it comes to camping gear and clothing, you’ll really want to think about what it is you NEED. Things that can serve multiple purposes are a huge plus. Breaking your lists up further into essentials, semi-essentials and non-essentials is a good way to pare things down. Make sure to consider the environment that you’ll be in. Be prepared but as minimal as possible; perhaps you don’t need that pair of flip-flops or that fourth pair of socks.

If you’ll need to portage or boof a lot, then you’ll really need to think about shedding excess weight. If not, its more a matter of how much you can fit or how much you want to deal with. Trying to pack a boat to its gills every day can become quite a task, and a heavy boat takes more effort to paddle. But, don’t be scared to pack on the pounds if you want to (read: beer). My Dagger Katana 10.4 weighed in at over 160 pounds when I launched on the Grand and performed just fine.

For clothing, bring enough to stay sufficiently warm and dry. Bring all synthetic technical wear, unless you want to pack an extra set of cotton camp clothing. I personally like to bring 2 full pairs of technical clothing, plus a camp / hiking set. Again, see my complete gear list at the bottom of this post. I will also cover water filtration equipment and human and food waste disposal later in the post.

Make sure you have an ample first aid kit. Medicines like Dayquil/Nyquil, Ibuprofen and Imodium are good to have around in a pinch. Hand lotion, nail clippers, tweezers and a file are handy as well, as your hands tend to take a beating on long trips.

Ben Bellah boofing a fully loaded Karma Traverse on the Dolores River

• Food:

Your food choice will largely depend on the length of your trip and your own personal taste. When thinking about food choices, remember that fat provides 9 calories per gram, whereas carbohydrates give you 4 calories per gram.
Many of my group opted to go with dehydrated backpacking meals from Mountain House Meals for their simplicity (add 2 cups boiling water!) and lightweight. Being a slightly more picky eater, I opted for slightly more “standard” foods like pastas, soups, and canned / cured meat. For breakfasts things like oatmeal, pancakes, and breakfast burritos with dehydrated eggs and cured meats were popular choices. Lunches mainly consisted of Babybel cheese wheels, nuts, cured meats, granola or energy bars, and chocolate or other candy. Dinners were largely pasta dishes, cous cous or rice dishes, or dehydrated soup mixes or ramen noodles. Root vegetables also keep well and can be added to almost any dish. For shorter trips, you can get away with perishable foods with the use of a kayak soft-cooler. You can also freeze meats and use them in the first few days of the trip. The easier the prep and cleanup, the better.

Pre-prepping and repackaging meals at home can be key and will help minimize trash you’ll have to carry out. Packing food in Zip-Loc bags come in handy for trash containers when empty. Bleach wipes, paper towels and a small dishtowel come in handy for quick cleanups. Hand sanitizer and baby or face wipes are also good to have along.

• Logistics:

As with any river trip, you’ll need to figure out how to get you and all your gear to and from the river. Compared to raft trips, your gear will be much more simple to haul, so trying to fit into fewer vehicles and utilizing a shuttle service can be an affordable option when split amongst multiple people. One word of caution: don’t transport your boats loaded. We ended up with some fairly large dents in our boats after leaving them semi-loaded on the return trip.

Use common sense and let people know where you’re going and when you plan to be back. Its never a bad idea to rent or borrow an emergency locator like the DeLorme InReach (keep it on your person), and carry a copy of your insurance card and list of emergency contacts with you on your trip. Basic survival tools like minor first aid, map, compass, and waterproof matches are all good things to have on your person as well.

Start small and work your way up. Consider doing a trip you’re familiar with and is well within your comfort zone. Start with a 1 or 2 night trip and work up from there. Rivers like the San Juan from Sand Island to Mexican Hat, Ruby/Westwater or the Moab Daily on the Colorado, the Rio Chama in New Mexico, and Escalante Canyon of the Gunnison are all great stretches to do your first self-support on.

soap-creek-camp

Camping next to our boats – Soap Creek Camp

– Preparation –

• Packing:

Packing all your gear is a critical part of planning your trip. Plan it out, then test it before your trip. Figuring out that you can’t fit everything at the put-in is never any fun. Use nylon drybags and compression drysacks to save weight and space (be careful of outfitting screws when packing the boat!). I prefer to use smaller drybags in varying sizes of 6L to 15L range. The Watershed Ocoee also makes a great day and/or camera bag with the padded liner.

Think about how to organize your gear, both in your bags, as well as in the boat. Group like items together, keep items you’ll need during the day separate, try to keep weight towards the center or front of the boat. I like to pack my tent / tarp, sleeping bag, and clothing in the back of the boat, as they’re usually the lightest. I try to put heavier items and things that I won’t need to access during the day (stove, camp chair, dinner / breakfast food) in the bow. I keep my lunch, camera and day bag behind the seat for easy access.

Remember that not everything needs to go in a dry bag, and to utilize nooks and crannies between bags to stuff small things (or beer!) into. Be careful of sharp corners or outfitting screws that could tear your bags. Bring a pair of lightweight rigging gloves to protect your hands while packing (open wounds suck in the desert!) Do a full test pack/unpack. I also recommend doing a test run on your local run to get a feeling for paddling and rolling the loaded boat. Make sure that you’re in proper paddling shape before embarking on your trip.

deer-creek

Lunch at Deer Creek Falls. High water made it possible to paddle all the way up to the falls.

– On the Water –

After lots of planning and prep, you’re finally on the water! Woohoo! This is where you put all the hard work to use, so lets cover a few helpful tips and some essential guidelines for when you’re on the water.

Remote river canyons are some of the coolest places on Earth, but they also demand and deserve our respect. Use good common sense and err on the side of caution. Mistakes in the middle of nowhere can be a big deal and nature can be very unforgiving, so use extra caution. There’s no raft to sit on, should you get injured, on this trip! Have respect for your surroundings. Practice Leave No Trace ethics and leave the canyon better than you found it. Pack out all your trash and solid waste. Liquid waste goes into the river. Strain your dishwater and pack out your food wastes. Use a small kitchen tarp (which also helps keep sand out of your food). Be respectful of your environment so that others can enjoy it as well.
Stay dry and warm! Try to keep your gear as dry as possible. Don’t forget about dew point and condensation, which can easily soak you if you sleep under the stars uncovered. Keeping sand out of your gear is an art form that can only be learned by experience. Bringing a small sand mat or ground tarp is very helpful.

Filtering drinking water will be one of the biggest considerations during your trip. On most rivers, pulling water from the main channel is recommended as side channels can have more concentrated contaminants. Having a few collapsible buckets like the Jacks Plastic Water Bucket are key for settling water on the muddy desert rivers we have around Durango. Water flocculants will help with the settling process, and using AquaMira before filtering will help with making sure your water is good to drink. Take care with decanting if you’re using a gravity filter to extend your filter life. Don’t lift the bucket after it’s settled! We went through 4 filters for our Katadyn 10L Base Camp gravity filter system for 6 people / 10 days on the Grand, even with careful decanting. Use paddles to make a tripod on tree-less beaches.

tripod2Our $1200 full carbon water tripod

For the groover (or poop tube), I used a lightweight 18in x 4in PVC sewer pipe with a cap on one end and a screw fitting on the other. Inside, I made a foam stopper on a string to compact and separate the waste from my tp, hand sanitizer and unused Wag Bags. It weighed in at less than 2 lbs using the lightweight pipe, but I would go to 20” if I were to do it again. The “rule of thumb” is 40 cubic inches per day. With a 4” pipe, I think 2” of length per day is ideal.

Our aluminum break-down firepan is roughly based on Boyce Greer’s design, with a few modifications to make for easier packing and assembly. It meets current regulations for most river trips, including the Grand, but double-check your area’s regulations before assuming. A fire-blanket may also be required.

Protect your food! Especially on popular rivers like the Grand, rodents and other creatures are a legitimate concern. Keep your food inside your boat with the hatch or cockpit cover on, which is good for keeping critters and insects out of your boat and gear. In bear country, elevate your food in a tree.

Keep essential items close at hand. I keep my small first aid / emergency kit, sunblock, snacks and camera in my day bag for easy access and for hiking. Bring an extra pair of sunglasses. Keep your throwbag or any other rescue hardware easily accessible and/or on your person. Stay hydrated!

That’s it! Have fun, be safe, take lots of pictures, make lots of memories!

gc-gear-pileAuthor’s self-support setup for a 10-day Grand Canyon self-support trip

Self-Support Kayak Gear List:

Below is a list of items we brought for our 10-day Grand Canyon self-support kayak trip in early November. Temperatures ranged from low 40’s to mid 70’s. Keep in mind that this is not a definitive list and you need to assess the proper gear for the conditions you’ll be paddling in. I’ve organized this trip by bag or container to help you to plan on how to organize your gear.

Paddling Gear: 

Everything Else:

Front of Kayak / Bow: 

Back of Kayak / Stern Hatch:

In the Cockpit:

  • Lunch Bag: NRS 10L Tuff Sack
    • 10 days worth of cured meats, wax cheese wheels, nuts, GORP, Cliff Bars, Chocolate & Candy
  • Day Gear Bag: NRS 6L Tuff Sack
    • Rain Jacket
    • Fleece hat
    • Baseball cap
    • Spare Sunglasses
    • Rigging Gloves – NRS Cove Glove
  • Day / Camera Bag: Watershed Ocoee Duffel with Padded Liner
    • Digital SLR Camera with 2 lenses
    • Mini tri-pod
    • Memory Cards & Lens Pen
    • Small First-Aid
    • Sunblock
    • Snacks
    • Day Wag Bag
  • Break-down Kayak Paddle – Werner Sherpa 4-piece (tucked between seat mounts and hull)
  • Bilge Sponge
  • Water bottles – 2x Nalgene 2L bottles
  • Groover – Strapped to the top of the stern
  • MORE BEER!

Group Gear: Dispersed amongst the group

redwall

The team at Redwall Cavern

Kayaking with kids

15 Nov 2016 / Comments Off / in Uncategorized/by

Planning on taking the little one(s) out kayaking or canoeing for the first time? Here’s a helpful infographic from one of our customers to help you plan your first few outings.

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